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THE 1990’s: A New Chapter Begins…
Whilst the 1990’s initially saw many of the old late 80’s labels still in
favour, a new breed of designers were soon to be plundered. Stone Island, CP
Company, Boneville, Ralph Lauren, Armani and to some extent the likes of Best
Company, Chipie and Chevignon were still sported by the match day fraternity.
The nouveau chic casual however was just around the corner as the decade became
known for a sweeping wave of new and relatively unknown brands. These included
6876, Dries Van Noten, Mandarina Duck, John Smedley, Katherine Hamnett, Nigel
Cabourn, Duffer Of St.George, Sharpeye, Hackett and Paul Smith. Old favourites
again resurfaced such as the Burberry golfer jackets also now available in a
thicker winter lined version. Massimo Osti set up shop on his own and designed
collections under the brands of Left Hand, Massimo Osti Productions and World
Wide Web.
Baseball caps also became more of a firm fixture on many heads. Although these
accessories had been about in the late 80’s, it wasn’t until the 90’s that they
really took off in a big way. The Polo range of plain Ralph Lauren caps was very
popular as were the Burberry house check and Aquascutum ones. Jeans became
straighter and classic and relaxed fits became more the norm as the baggy
paninaro style gradually faded. Footwear saw a return to training shoes with
many classic Adidas styles such as Trimm Trab and Gazelle back on the Agenda.
New Balance joggers were still being worn although Puma and Reebok also had
their fans.
Ralph Lauren was probably at its peak during the first 3 years of the decade
although it had originally appeared way back in 85/86. The plain coloured
Harrington jackets were one of the items sourced from their classic Polo range
and retailed around the £100 mark. There were essentially 2 versions – a lighter
weight summer jacket and a heavier winter number which had a thick tartan
lining. Both variations were available in a huge range of colours to suit all
tastes. Ralph Lauren Polo shirts, jumpers, sweatshirts and button down shirts
were also big sellers at the time.
Stone Island and CP remained throughout the decade although both the Boneville
and Navy Arctic ranges were discontinued by Sportswear Company S.P.A. Polo
shirts from the London based designer Hackett had also started to become worn
especially by some of the London lads on the England scene although Hackett
avoided large scale attention until the end of decade. John Smedley knitwear was
another one of the new crop of designer labels that became an alternative
antidote to house check and compass patches. The Scottish designer Kenneth
MacKenzie also upped the stakes in 1995 with his impressive range of 6876
clothing whilst Belgian designer Dries Van Noten provided some expensive
knitwear.
Massimo Osti had designed for both the Stone Island and CP collections but
decided to start his own projects. Particular mention has to be made here as his
use of different fabrics and unusual innovative designs really were ahead of
their time. All through the 90’s we saw many different and varied pieces which
certainly caught the eye of the connoisseurs looking for something different.
It would be an impossible task to name check every single brand of clothing or
provide photographs of all the varying pieces from the decade. However I have
tried to include a varied spectrum representing the era in the following
gallery…
1)
CP Comany
winter jacket from 1995
label close up of above
2)Massimo Osti Productions winter jacket - dual layer 3 in
one coat with
removable inner that can be worn separately.
close up shot of above - note the removable MO pin badge
on right lapel
which can be put anywhere on the garment.
3)Boneville navy winter jacket with removable hood - this is
believed to
be from the last collection in the late 90's.
4)Nigel Cabourn jacket - famed for his outdoor attire this
British
designer became very popular for a while.
Label as above
5)Katherine Hamnett winter jacket circa 97
6) Boneville rain jacket circa 1991 - these later turned up
in TK Maxx
stores in 2007 in various colours but this one was purchased back in 91.
7) Duffer Of St George fleece jacket from 97
8)White hooded Boneville summer jacket with lower hem B
logo.
9) Aquascutum winter jacket
Aqua coat of arms logo from inner
10)Burberry golfer - this is the winter version which had a
much thicker
lining in the rarer khaki colour.
close up of label and lining
11)Barbour Beaufort jacket - popular on and off since the
late 80's
especially the green version this jacket again saw some wear in the 90's.
12) Boneville dual layer coat from early 90's - one of
several designs that
featured a removable arm patch which also included the Boating and Ski
Wear jackets.
13) Burberry golfer jacket, cap, shirt and umbrella.
While the jackets became
popular again so did house check shirts and the baseball caps. This is one
of the original camel house check caps not to be mistaken for the later
coffee and florida check versions used between 2000 and 2004.The caps also
came in smaller check similar to the shirts as well as numerous variations
with or without motifs to the front and rear. Plain caps with the
equestrian knight were also available for the more discerning punter.
14) Buberry collection in navy blue house check.This was
arguably the best
colour combination for many people.
15) Mandarina Duck dual layer winter jacket. Typical piece in
unusual fabrics
with removable inner lining and discreet logo to zip tag.
16) Summer Mandarina Duck jacket
17) Hackett polo shirt
18) CP Company ice jacket from 1997.Green in colour when cold
the jacket
becomes yellow as the environment becomes warmer as the hand print
shows. Comes with a removable arm patch and similar in concept to the more
common Stone Island models.
19) Stone Island pure metal shell jacket. Limited edition white
badge to arm
this is an expensive top end piece and has thousands of metal fibres
incorporated into the outer fabric which gives it a unique colour as it
catches the light.
close up of metal shell lining
20)
Stone Island dual layer coat featuring the famous dutch
rope system
which was incorporated in so many of their winter pieces. This coat dates
from 1997.
close up of inner lining of above jacket.
21) Massimo Osti Left Hand jacket.Typical piece in
experimental vinyl type
fabric featuring heat embossed logo to arm and removable hood.
22) Faconnable coat - Albert Goldberg was the man behind this
high end
French label which became popular especially in the north west towards the
end of the decade. Very similar in concept to much of the Polo Ralph Lauren
line, this brand produces classic polo shirts, jeans, outerwear and shirts
amongst its output.
23)
1996 Italian issue Adidas Trimm Trab - several old 80's
training shoes
got a re-release during the 90's including Trimm Trab and Gazelle in
various colourways.Note the much shorter stripes and thinner gold
lettering to the post millennium issues.
24)
Stone Island jacket - note the pre
2000 issues had a
green edged
compass patch badge rather than the later black edged version.
25) Original
1991 Polo Ralph Lauren Harrington jacket with throat latch.
26) Boneville Navy Arctic t-shirt
27) 1993 Ralph Lauren polo shirt
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