The Big Re-issue, Fila Vintage, Sergio Tacchini, Adidas Originals, The Firm

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WHU65 examines the reissue mania which has swept the country over the last decade…

A quick glance through the online retailers, a trawl through the endless listings on Ebay or a simple stroll down your local high street will reveal much the same thing, a long line of reissued products. Whether you are talking about the latest in a long line of Adidas Trimm Trab trainers to hit the shelves or simply questioning the specification of yet another Fila Whiteline tracksuit top, it is clear that the current reissue market has created a booming business for some retailers and manufacturers.

It is hard to define exactly when the current nostalgia wave started or indeed when it will end. However the roots can be traced as far back as the early to mid 90’s with the Brit pop scene and second hand vintage emporiums trading in discarded clothing from labels like Fila, Tacchini and Adidas. Bands such as Oasis and Blur had a passion for old school Adidas and what was referred to by some as the “retro” look. Dotted about in parts of London, several vintage second hand clothes shops were stocking items unwanted by many but just as eagerly sought by others. Both Camden Market and also Notting Hill had a good stock of attire including original Fila Borg items, Fila WCT and Whiteline, Sergio Tacchini, Ellesse, Burberry, Lacoste, Aquascutum, Adidas and assorted other old favourites. Covent Garden was also another hunting ground. Around the country similar outlets could be found especially in the larger cities such as Manchester who had vendors in the Affleck’s Palace building. Jumble sales and charity shops also turned out the odd piece at a more favourable price.

At this point there was of course no Ebay and online computer technology was in its infancy. Prices reflected this, as few were seeking out labels they previously wore 10-15 years earlier preferring to sport the latest offerings from Stone Island, CP Company and Duffer of St. George. A good condition Fila Bj track top could for example set you back as little as 30-40 of her majesty’s finest and rarely more than 50-60 pounds at most even by the late 1990’s. As the rents increased on Camden Market so did the prices. The market saw a revamp which priced many of the smaller traders away and with it most of the better bargains. Another problem was that there were only so many original era items in circulation. Once bought up they tended to stay in the hands of collectors and connoisseurs alike. Also much of the original sportswear came in small sizes as they tended to be purchased by slim teenagers and so trying to find a top to fit a 30 something that had put on a bit of weight and needed a larger size was not always easy.

During the late 1990’s, Sergio Tacchini had brought out a line of retro tracksuits based on original designs from the 1980’s. This was followed in 2000 by a small range of reissues of the Dallas and Ghibli track tops as well as the Supermac and Blow polo shirts. Unlike the later reissue tracksuit tops; this original batch had standard YKK zippers without the ST logo tags. These were not widely available or very well received originally in the UK. As Tacchini followed up the range with another batch of releases the following year, Fila also jumped aboard the reissue bandwagon. More Dallas tops followed from Sergio Tacchini in a wider range of colours and the Fford and Star models were amongst the latest additions as well as further variations of the Ghibli. The zipper fob logo tags aside and the odd track top collar that was shorter than on the original Dallas pieces, Tacchini had come up with a credible collection.

In comparison Fila unleashed a rather poor range of Borg Bj model track tops and polo shirts without the Bj patch due to Bjorn Borg’s refusal to strike a deal. Instead the second patch next to the “F” logo badge now featured the word Fila. There were versions with both small and large logo badges in several different colours but the detailing was quite poor. Original Bj tops came with cream side panels not white as per the reissues and only had pinstripes to the panels not the inside of the arms as these newer variants had. The logo zipper fobs were also much smaller on the reissues and they had different coloured zips, incorrect banding to the cuffs, neck and waistband and often the wrong coloured pinstripes too!

Despite several further runs and changes of design over the last 8 years, Fila have yet to issue a single Settanta model that has the original specification other than a very small limited run of numbered red ones back in 2006.This was part of the Settantatre collection which came as a boxed numbered limited edition with a worldwide release of just 500 pieces of each garment. They continue to issue the tops with pinstripes to the inner arm, white instead of cream panels and incorrect coloured zippers and banding on a regular basis. Only the navy/royal blue version is even the right colour but this still has pinstripes to the inner arms. The red colour is way off and looks more like a pillar box red than the colour Borg actually wore during his heyday.

Ellesse not to be outdone by their rivals also stepped into the reissue market. Not only did they produce some nice track tops and polo’s but they also chucked in a complete collection of their retro ski wear including jumpers, tops and jackets in 2002. Diadora again produced the Borg Elite training shoe in early 2001 although like Adidas they had been proactive in the reissue stakes back in the 90’s but to a lesser extent. During this early post millennium period, the reproduced lines received a mixed reception. Sales were not anything like at the level of today, nor was there such a high level of stockists. In fact, many garments hit the sales racks and struggled even at half price to find their way out of stores like JD Sports, Size and Selfridges. Diadora Borg Elite shoes could be found for as little as £12.99 to £19.99, a far cry from the later Ebay frenzy that saw prices rocket up to £175 just for a pair of reissues!

Lacoste, Lyle and Scott, Pringle, Gabicci, Farah, Kappa, Cerruti 1881 and even Australian by L’Alpina were amongst the brands that also seized the opportunity to dip their toes into the water as the UK gradually took to the retro and 80’s look. The British menswear revival around the millennium period had seen both Pringle and Lyle and Scott re-launching their brands with heritage style collections based around their classic 70’s/80’s designs. Argyle pattern knitwear featured heavily in both camps collections as did old style v-neck plain sweaters in a wide range of colours.

Although it initially took time to spread the word, more and more punters were adopting these previously discarded brands. With the help of the internet metamorphosis more people had access to PC’s. The rise of forum and message boards where rival football lads would argue the toss, talk about the old days and swap anecdotes on old clothing soon followed. Camden market faded and the dealers either slowly disappeared or realised the value of certain products. Ebay became the countries new market place and began to prosper. In the early days up to around 2003, many designer goods could be bought up cheaply but this was soon to change. As demand grew for clothing such as the original Fila Borg range so did the amount of people searching for it. This in turn pushed prices up and we went from £60-80 for a track top to £100+. Pretty soon this was £200+ and over the last 3 years prices have rocketed to upwards of £500+ for an original Fila Bj top. The Terrinda track tops in large sizes have on occasion gone for upwards of £800 which is not bad for an item of old clothing not far off 30 years old!

It is no longer just ageing 30 and 40 something’s seeking out vintage clothing though. Now younger lads, some not even born when these labels were in their prime are now starting to take note. Films like The Business, articles in the media, books, internet message boards and dedicated websites to the designer clothing culture of the football lad are all playing their part in the resurgence of interest in brands like Fila, Tacchini and Diadora. With Awaydays and Nick Love’s remake of the The Firm also due out at the cinema later in the year, the current 80’s hype shoes no sign of burn out just yet.

If Fila’s first few collections were somewhat disappointing, 2006 showed that maybe there was finally hope after all. They produced better sizing with longer bodies and arms that suited the fuller figure of ageing terrace lads and reinstated full size logo tags to their zippers. The new collections and relaunch of the Whiteline range showed some promise. Despite their persistence with the poor Settanta tops, Fila have started to release some excellent pieces from their extensive back catalogue. This autumn to coincide with the remake of The Firm, Fila have finally decided to re-release the popular Terrinda track top. Fabric problems prevented them from doing so earlier and after several prototype samples that failed to make it to the shop shelves, red, green and navy versions will be available from September. No Bj badge I’m afraid but special editions with appropriate logos will be forthcoming from 80’s Casuals and Planet Clothing (80’scasualclassics.co.uk) as well as the general release with more colours planned for 2010.

Adidas unlike some of their rivals have continually over the years plundered their vaults to reissue old shoes. Even before there was any serious demand, they had brought back favourites like Gazelle, Trimm Trab, Grand Prix and Nastase. When Adidas reissued 12 different colourways of Trimm Trab over the 2004/05 period it caused a buying frenzy with some models selling out within a couple of weeks of release. So popular was the navy/argie batch that a further run had to be produced to meet demand. This was in stark contrast to the previous issues in both 1996 and 1999 when they stayed on shop shelves for months with little interest. JD Sports had plenty of stock in the sale for £19.99 during the 1996 campaign and still struggled to shift them even then!

A good proportion of the Adidas trainer reissues of the early post millennium period were not particularly sought after at the time. However, in subsequent years Ebay has seen a roaring trade with people paying £100+ for deadstock shoes that often ended up in sales racks for as little as £20-£40. The internet seems largely to blame for pushing prices up as lads found about trainers they really knew nothing about until they saw other people talking about them on message boards. One of the most popular ranges of Adidas footwear with collectors and football heads is the city range which includes models like Berlin, Madrid, London, Oslo, Kopenhagen, Dublin and Stockholm. All these shoes have been re-released during the last 8 years and the earlier issues like Berlin and Madrid fetch premium prices. The last 9 years have seen dozens of favourites from the 1980’s brought back to life such as Munchen, Grand Slam, Forest Hills, Jeans, Nastase, Stan Smith and Grand Prix. Quality and opinion on original specification varies with some models being very well done but others falling somewhat short of the mark.

Diadora have been far less well versed on the reissue scene although that could be about to change. They have relied largely on endless runs of the Borg Elite shoe since 2001 with odd other gems like the Master in 2002 thrown in for good measure. There are several other colours of the Borg Elite shoe coming later in 2009 as well as some very interesting models from their archive over the next 18 months. Included in this batch will be some special limited edition releases.

An interesting offshoot of the retro culture is that at least one dedicated store has opened its doors. In a striking similarity to shops like Streetfighter and Man at War which traded in the early 1980’s, Planet clothing in Bedford carries the largest most extensive range of reissue sportswear in the UK. Specialising in brands like Fila, Tacchini, Diadora and Kappa, Planet also run a successful online site and Ebay business.

Another by product of the reissue and internet culture is the birth of the Ebay and credit card/Paypal casual. Lads (many not even part of the original scene) with high disposable incomes are simply searching Ebay and buying up endless vintage and retro brands they have read about on internet forums. This in turn pushes prices up as more people fight over the limited amount of original era pieces still around in good condition and decent sizes.

Opinion differs widely amongst knowledgeable football lads as to whether the reissue culture is a good or bad thing. Some take the stance that one should only purchase original era items and that buying a reissued product is simply not acceptable. Others completely disagree and are quite happy to get an old design in brand new condition with a more affordable price tag. There is of course no right or wrong here and it is entirely a matter of what the individual feels comfortable with. One man’s meat is after all another man’s poison…

Kenny McCall a Dundee United fan, clothing connoisseur and author of the true story of the Dundee Utility book “After the Match the Game Begins” takes up the story...

Sportswear is something I think every kid in Britain is brought up into. From the days running around as a starry eyed kid pretending to be your favourite football player, to watching the best tennis players and golfers on the box, then running out to the local courts and parks and re-enacting what you’d just watched. That’s the reason why the Casual scene originally took off so quick and became so huge. It was a natural progression clothes wise. Being 38 I just missed being an ‘active’ casual at the very beginning but remember it fondly as I watched them strut their stuff from the city centres to the terraces at Tannadice. Around 1981/2 it became
apparent that the Mods, Punks, Skins, Goths and Two-tone kids had another contender up here in Scotland when the Aberdeen Soccer Casuals brought a new scene to the streets and terraces of Scotland. Back then it was almost like picking your subjects at School, you simply had to become something or somebody. For most kids turning up at the house looking like an extra from the Rock and Roll Swindle or Made in Britain wasn’t an option, so when the chance to wear the clothes your heroes wore and become that ‘somebody’ and part of a fantastic new movement…….well it was just the perfect match.

The original Casual look was a fantastic change of image from the norm. Black trainers were changed for the whites of the Adidas range and Puma’s G Vilas. Jeans were bleached, and jumpers were now from the golf ranges of Slazenger, Lyle and Scott and Pringle. Any cagoule was also a standard item with the preferred brand, up here, Adidas.

The first thing that really gripped me was the Italian influence. As soon as Tacchini, Fila and Diadora hit the shops here in Scotland, the colours, the designs, the cut and the detail of those Italian labels was amazing. The terrace lads ditched the original labels for those that were being worn by the McEnroe’s and Borg’s of the centre court. This, here, must have been around 82/3. Myself being a lot younger at the time only got my first Tacchini polo and Adidas cagoule in early 84, and although it became apparent almost as soon as I had them they were old hat and the older lads had moved on I cherished them all the same. In fact, I still have that Tacchini polo 25 years later! Another thing that bowled me over was the Diadora stripe and especially the Borg Elite. Adidas, Puma and the likes were worn by everyone and in all walks of life… Diadora was only for the great man and soccer casual in my eyes.

Has the reissue market we have seen booming over the last 10 years now reached saturation level?

I don’t think it’s near saturation level at all, as it’s not really taken off anywhere near the level of the original movement, but in my opinion it’s run its course and it’s time to move on. It has become quite big business though as older lads from yesteryear have romantically re-lived their youth by buying labels and certain models they maybe never had the money for the first time round, or replacing a favourite item from the early 80s they thought they’d never clap eyes on again. The younger lads who’ve no doubt read about and seen pictures of the first generation Casual have bought bits and pieces and mixed them up with some of the newer styles, giving us older heads something to moan about saying they’re not getting it right!

The big thing for me is, could the younger element take it on and do what we did, move it forward and give us something new, something completely different, like we did, or is it going to stall and die as you can only copy things so much? I’d like to see them take it forward. I’d like to see the day when I can be more influenced by them and what they’re wearing than the kids taking an interest in what the older lads are sporting. It’s a young lad’s thing… as it should always be.

Do you feel there are now too many brands jumping on the reissue band wagon churning out too many products?

Yeah, without a shadow of a doubt. Companies like Adidas who have given us trainers running into the hundreds to drool over since the 70s have, even though they must have a budget of millions, hardly given us anything new of note since the millennium. Same with the other sportswear companies, they’ve all gone stale and rather than produce something new for young and old have simply churned out old re-issues. Very lazy in my opinion and simply a money making racket.

Due to the internet, lads like myself have over the last few years, enjoyed browsing for old favourites and new colourways, with the prices basically the same if not less than what they were 20 years ago (unless originals are your thing). It’s meant that collections have formed in households up and down the UK with lads having pairs of trainers running into hundreds. I myself have gone from 3 or 4 trainers as per standard to, at times, up to near 40 pairs simply because I now can. But the initial bug for me of having what I couldn’t get when I was younger has worn off almost completely. I’m now down to about 15 pairs and haven’t bought a pair for over a year because it’s gone stale and hasn’t produced anything worth getting excited about for years. Maybe I’m just growing old gracefully!

Regarding the above question do you think there are:
Too many reissues? That the level is about right? Or, that there are not enough?

It’s good that there are re-issues as, let’s be honest, the best trainers were the original, simple designs that the Adidas and Nike’s of this world churned out, but there has to be a time when you ask yourself is this the way it’s going to be for the foreseeable future? Are they simply going to keep rotating old trainers every other few years? The only company that have released new models, new colourways and kept the Casuals interest in their range is New Balance. For me it’s the best ‘Casual’ trainer out there for re-inventing itself with new simple designs, well made and looks great on the feet with a pair of jeans or cords. It would be interesting to see if they could ever break away from solely doing runners but for the time being their range is as good if not better than anyone’s, and has been for years.

Films such as The Business and the forthcoming Awaydays and The Firm, seem to have further stoked the reissue fire. Many younger lads not even born when the original clothing was worn are now getting tuned into brands like Diadora, Fila and Tacchini. Do you think this is a good or bad thing and why?

As I said earlier I don’t think it’s a bad thing making younger lads aware of the labels that started the whole revolution off, as it should give them a bit of pride in their appearance, which is severely lacking with young kids of late for a few different reasons. As long as they continue in the same vein as we did and take it to new levels and looks it’ll hopefully not stagnate after a couple of years and they move onto something completely different. Our thing was all about finding new, moving forwards all the time and sourcing new labels. Going back, way back, is fine as long as it’s to take great leaps forward…..I have my doubts as I think it’s going to be a case of exploit it now, make money out of it and it’ll be dropped for something different soon. We invented it all ourselves, took no leads from anywhere but our own, used our initiative to mix and match and look different. The kids now are not really having to think, just copying what used to look good and throwing it together with whatever. There are of course exceptions to that, there are some really well turned out kids, but there’s certainly less than before. Hopefully they can grow and turn it into something great again.

What do you feel overall about the quality and design specification of the majority of reissue items? Are they better or worse? Which brands stand out as getting it right or wrong for you?

Definitely not as good as the originals. Then again, nothing ever is, is it? It’s got to the stage where it looks like they’re just churning out any old stuff to make an easy buck. The quality of the Italian labels like Fila, Tacchini and Diadora have went so far downhill it’s heartbreaking. Adidas have re-issued some models that have been close to the mark but overall they are a shade of the past. Reebok are the latest to be re-issuing their old range from the mid 80s. It’ll be interesting to see what they come up with; hopefully it’s better than the rest. They were one of the best companies out for runners - the phase one and GL range were up there with the best. I still can’t believe that there hasn’t been a new brand that’s appeared in the last 20 years that has appealed to the masses. You’d think over two decades that someone would come and take the mantle. It’s maybe the reason for the laziness and lack of apparent effort from the major brands to come up with much new stuff for leisure wear.

One debate which regularly rages amongst football lads up and down the country is the "Ted" syndrome. I.E. lads in their very late 30's and 40's dressing like teenagers of 25+ years ago in the present day. Is this acceptable or does it make you like a middle aged teddy boy? Should lads in their 40's be wearing Fila Bj track tops or should they just let it go and move on?

When it first appeared back on the scene in the early millennium I, like most older lads, got really excited about it all. Like I said earlier, I was like most who’d replaced Tacchini polo’s from yesteryear, bought new Fila re-issued tops and had an endless amount of trainers arrive at the house every other week. But, in the last year or two I’ve sort of came to my senses and realised it’s not really the thing I was most into then and certainly not now as I’m pushing 40. Although I did love the original sportswear look it was the following dress down look, or dress up as I would rather label it, that I loved more.

As I earlier said the sportswear look wasn’t really that different from what we wore as kids, just much better and harder to get brands. The next phase was without doubt my favourite and lasted to the present day. It could be argued that the sportswear phase originated in the North West of England, and then the baton was taken north after a European cup game between Liverpool and Aberdeen, then spread throughout Scotland and the rest of Britain, but it was the hooligan documentary screened in 1985 that followed the West Ham ICF that really gripped me. The clothes on show were a cut above and different completely from the ‘trackies’ and trainers we’d all worn as kids. The suede’s, the leathers (especially the hooded ones), the tweeds, shirts (especially paisley), Burberrys and quality knitwear was up a few gears to me… thereafter we became boys dressed like men…. 25 years later it was like we became men dressed like boys.

I’ve became hooked again sourcing quality shirts, and British made clothing has me excited that we CAN go forwards rather than back. The Barbour’s, Oliver Spencer’s, Nigel Cabourn’s, Folk, Aertex and Margaret Howell’s of this world, quality made shoes from Loake, Trickers and Clarks, have me going in the complete opposite direction from the re-issued sportswear from today’s market. In my opinion it was great to re-ignite the passion again but, like 1985, it’s been left behind here in Dundee for me for pastures new.

Do you think that the reissue culture holds the football lad/casual movement back rather than looking forward? Is it better to find new labels rather than harking back to the early 1980's for inspiration?

It’s definitely stalled. For the last 15 years it’s become stale and uniformed. Fashions haven’t really moved forward and certain labels have become standard for years now. For me the great thing about the original Casual was it moved forward and in all different directions for years. On a monthly, and even weekly basis, lads were always trying to out-do one another and look completely different. Since the patch, goggle and house check have become standard it’s become uniformed and stale. Most lads don’t look for anything different these days, they just go out and buy what it takes to become one of the pack.

The original idea of re-releasing all the old labels was great as long as it moved forward again but you can’t get young kids to grasp properly what something that happened 25+ years ago was really all about these days because times have changed and life is different. I suppose it must be like the mods of the 60s then the mods of the late 70s…they looked the same but were probably quite different really.

Can there really be much mileage left for the reissue market given the fact that the original 1980's lads are now getting older? Will demand drop as grey haired, balding and overweight middle aged men feel that they can no longer be seen in track tops and sportswear? Will the younger lads pick up the baton and run with it or will the market again die out as it originally did around 1984?

I think it’s already finished. The older lads have re-visited old looks already, began to move on, and settle with a look more suited to their age. You’ll always get older lads wearing trainers but the tracksuit tops and ski jackets will, without a doubt, be seen less as we get older. The younger element will possibly get more mileage out of it, especially after the films Awaydays and The Firm are released in the summer, but I think like the 2nd dawning of the mod scene, this generation of Casual will be over pretty quickly. The older lads will carry the torch until they drop but the younger element will move onto something different…. It’s what young kids do after all. I hope I’m wrong and we see young kids turned out in all the gear for years to come but I very much doubt it. What’s next? ...... Who knows, it’ll certainly be interesting to see.

Based in the North West of England, Jay Montessori is a Tranmere Rovers supporter with a passion for designer threads. He is the main man behind the 80’s Casuals brand and former head buyer for a well known chain of North West based designer shops. He had this to say...

I can clearly remember in 1981 craving for a Fila BJ MK1 warm up jacket and eventually having to settle for buying a second hand one from an older kid at school for the grand sum of £60, my ma thought I was mad! The reissues may have run their course with the original casuals but I see no reason why this legacy can’t be passed on to new generations. If they are selling them then the level is right, if they are not then it’s wrong. What I do feel is there are too many poor reissues coming out. I have been in top end retail for 20 years and all I have seen is the quality get poorer and the prices get higher.

Most of the reissues are piss poor due to a shift in manufacturing origins and what people will put up with now. It stands to reason that if clothes up to 30 years old are still changing hands on Ebay in good condition; they were very well made does it not? Fila are the only ones getting it right now for me. There are too many brands jumping on the bandwagon that were never on it in the first place!

As I said before I think the reissue market is a good thing. If the casual era was good then we should keep it going by educating the young lads to mix clothes of heritage with modern gear and not just all this Gio Goi and Henleys crap, what’s all that about? As you get older it depends if you still look good in it! Personally I can still get away with it but tend to mix it in with more modern gear so I don’t look a complete throw back! Personally I think it will die out but nothing would give me greater pleasure than seeing an army of young lads clad in Italian sportswear again at the match.

“The Liverpool Boys Are In Town” by Dave Hewitson tells the story of the birth of terrace culture. This book provides a fascinating insight into the early days and labels behind the movement. Dave follows Liverpool and was part of the original burgeoning scene back on Merseyside in the late seventies. He is also another of the team behind the ever growing and popular 80’s Casuals clothing label and offers up his thoughts here...

Growing up in Liverpool swept you along with the culture and Liverpool’s conquests in Europe gave plenty of opportunity to acquire the latest brands. Adidas was the main sportswear with t-shirts, cagoules and trainers from '77 onwards but the continental labels began appearing late 1980/81 season. Liverpool played in Germany, France and Switzerland by the summer of '81. I personally enjoyed trips to all of those places and picked up bits of Fila, Ellesse and Tacchini on my travels.

I think we're going to see a lot more re-issues in the next year or so with the culture now hitting mainstream, the next 18 months could hit the peak. Nick loves 'The firm' will add fuel to the market with Fila capitalising on a very commercial film having seen it recently. I expect other sportswear brands to jump on the bandwagon also and who can blame them. A whole new generation of kids are being enticed into this culture and with it being a part of going to the match they feel a bond to supporting their team and having a match going look to go with it. Pretty much in the way that we have had for the last 30 years. The whole objective for a company is to make money and a culture involving hundreds of thousands who go to the game is a ready made market. I don't know if there's too many but eventually the wheat from the chaff will usually surface.

I suppose it depends from what perspective this is looked at. As someone who’s making a living from the era, I want as many people as possible to tune into the era. They are gaining knowledge of an era that needed documenting which was one reason for me writing the Liverpool boys are in town book. If we look back at previous cultures i.e.; teddy boys from 50s returned in the 70s [film; That'll Be The Day], mods also with Quadrophenia blazed a trail across our screens, it was almost inevitable the casuals would return en-masse. One reason I give is that the pioneers from back in the day are now at the helm of their jobs whether it be in film [directors, writers] magazines, books etc therefore they look back on their youth as wonderful times and write and record their thoughts. I’m sure many a mid-life crisis has also played its part as well.

As for collectors, I’m sure they wished there was no re-issues because I think re-sale value can only depreciate with similar re-issues about.
Everything is usually made in China these days so I’m sure quality will be lost from the gear made in the early 80s. There seems to have been more attention to detail especially in the sportswear because basically it was made
For the rigours of playing sport whereas today’s trainers and sportswear are made as a fashion commodity to be worn for a few months only before fashion changes. It is becoming more acceptable for lads in their 30s/40s to be wearing sportswear. It seems to be the only thing they have known. The generation after mine grew up in Lacoste tracksuits and will probably see nothing wrong in wearing a tracksuit every day. I suppose if they feel comfortable in their attire it’s their own choice. Our forefathers would feel comfortable in a suit but not in a tracksuit or even jeans for those in their 60s/70s.

Although I personally don't see anything wrong with wearing ''retro'' gear I for one think there's a big enough fashion scene to keep things moving forward. Each to their own really, there will always be innovators and they will be the ones taking the culture forward. Plus a nice mix of a re-issue with a new label gives a nod to the past and to what the future may hold. The overweight middle aged man should now know what he feels comfortable in. There will always be detractors no matter what he wears. As long as one feels comfortable within oneself etc. but I don't think he is the one now bringing this re-issue market to the fore. Maybe he re-vigourated it a few years back but all the mass market stuff is now aimed at the next young generation with money in their pockets. They will have their own pioneers and who knows where they'll take it?

The final word goes to Nick at Originals Footwear based in Barnsley. I was keen to find out which brands and reissues were his best sellers. Also, whether there really is that much difference in the so called north v south divide..? Nick is a fan of Barnsley loves his clothes and has successfully been trading since January 2000 specialising in classic style training shoes. The newer revamped shop has added a varied selection of clothing to complement the footwear department.

“The best selling footwear brand is Adidas by a long way, can’t see that ever changing. On the clothing side at the moment I would say Barbour but I also sell a lot of the Fila Heritage sportswear. There’s no real difference in what I sell in the north or south, maybe a few more Diadora shoes down south though”.

I WOULD LIKE TO OFFER MY SINCERE AND SPECIAL THANKS TO:

Kenny McCall, Jay Montessori, Dave Hewitson and Nick from Originals Footwear who all freely took time out from their busy schedules to offer their opinions and valuable help in the preparation of this article.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE USE THE LINKS PROVIDED HERE:

“After the Match the Game Begins” by Kenny McCall and John Robb published by John Blake is available now. This is not just yet another hoolie volume cluttering up the shelves. It has a bit more humour and touches on the music and fashions of the time as well:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/After-Match-Begins-Kenny-McCall/dp/1844544516/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1249384570&sr=1-1

“The Liverpool Boys Are In Town” by Dave Hewitson published by The Bluecoat Press is also available to buy now. You do not have to be born in the North West to enjoy this book. This is an updated version of Dave’s marvellous original D.I.Y. volume and is highly recommended especially for those wishing to know about the roots of the casual culture in the late seventies and early eighties. It features many photos of the original clothing and trainers:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liverpool-Boys-Are-Back-Town/dp/1904438687/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1249384734&sr=1-1

80’s Casuals started life over 5 years ago with a very small range of t-shirts and has grown steadily ever since. The Brand has had its own website since October 2005 and now offers an ever expanding range of clothing as well as a forthcoming book. You can visit the site via the link below which is a mine of information and photos:

www.80scasuals.co.uk

Originals Footwear has been trading now for almost a decade and has obtained a good reputation for providing classic training shoes and a fine line in casual clothing. Visit one of the North’s leading designer specialist shops online at:

www.originalsfootwear.com